At one time, Coastal New England‘s chowder was a simple combination of fish or clams with water, pork, and onions, thickened with flour. The Portuguese prepared a richer version using olive oil, tomatoes, peppers, and garlic. By the middle of the nineteenth century, a true New England chowder was a milky stew, served with water biscuits or hardtack of a rock like texture that was meant to be crumbled and soaked in the chowder as filler. Salt cod substituted when fresh fish was unavailable. Lobster, once considered a food of the poor, has become a luxury and is served here at its simplest boiled. A true down easter prefers his lobster boiled or steamed, flavored with nothing more than the sea water in which it cooks.

Ingredients:

• 1 pound salt cod
• 1 pound fresh cod fillet, skin removed
• 1 pound halibut fillet, skin removed
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 4 cups heavy cream
• 2 cups milk
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• ¼ pound fresh pork fatback
• 2 cups peeled, diced, waxy potatoes such as Yukon Gold
• Freshly milled black pepper
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

How to Prepare

Soak the cod water and cover for 12 hours, changing the water 2 or 3 times. Or until the salt is gone.
Cut all of the fish in 1 ½ – inch cubes. Cover and refrigerate.
In a soup kettle, melt the butter over moderate heat.
Add the heavy cream, milk, and thyme and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, dice the fatback and cook over moderate heat until rendered golden brow.
Drain on paper towels and set aside on a warm part of the stove.
Add the potatoes to the chowder and simmer until the potatoes are almost fork – tender.
Add the fish and simmer for about 10 minutes, until just cooked through. Season to taste with pepper.
Serve the rendered pork on the side and let each guest sprinkle some over the chowder.